Landscape Lingo

September 30, 2000; also appearing on Saturday in the Lancaster Eagle Gazette
Be Patient with Yellowjackets and Hornets

As we typically do this time of year, we've been getting plenty of complaints about yellowjackets and hornets becoming a nuisance. This is the time of year when the diet of these insects changes from caterpillars and other insects to 'sweets' such as apple cider and spilled soda.

During the first half of the season, the yellowjacket workers are searching for other insects to chew up as a source of high protein food to feed the larvae in the nest. Usually, in mid-August, the queen lays eggs that form new reproductive queens and drones. When these queens and drones emerge, they "beg" the workers to search for high carbohydrate foods which would normally be honeydew from aphids and scales. Unfortunately, all sweets, especially those spilled at picnics or during the Fair, are highly attractive to these workers.

Yellowjackets and hornets will die when freezing weather arrives. In the mean time, the most effective repellent is to avoid being around sweets. This includes not only soda and the like, but also fragrences that smell sweet.

If they do move into area that can't be avoided until freezing weather, control measures may be necessary to avoid stings. If the nest is exposed, the petroleum based hornet sprays can knockdown the pests on contact. It is best to wait until dark and use a flashlight to locate the nest for spraying. At night, these insects will not fly, but they will hit the ground and crawl around, so spray and back away. If the nest is in the ground, a glass of household ammonia poured down the hole will usually kill an entire nest. Again do this at night to avoid being stung by a foraging worker that discovers you upon returning to the nest. If the nest is in the attic or wall void, puffing a powdered insecticide such as Sevin into the openings to these nests usually gets the job done by allowing the workers to track the pesticide back into the nest. Often a couple of applications are necessary to completely eliminate all the individuals in a nest.



Firewood is 'Regulated'

With Fall weather upon us, we've begun to receive calls regarding firewood. Many are not aware that the law requires that sellers of firewood must advertise and sell firewood by the cord or by weight. This is mandated by rules adopted by the Ohio Department of Agriculture in 1989. By law, a cord of firewood is 128 cubic feet. This means that a stack of firewood 4 feet wide by 8 feet long by 4 feet deep is a cord. Any term other than "cord" used in selling firewood is illegal. In addition, each seller must provide the buyer with a delivery ticket or sales invoice with the following information: name and address of the vendor and purchaser, delivery date, quantity delivered, quantity upon which the price is based, and the total price of the amount delivered. The rules also require wood advertised and sold as "seasoned firewood" to be air-dried, with a moisture content of 50 percent or less.

As you purchase your firewood, be aware that prices vary depending on the species and condition of the firewood, whether the wood is delivered and stacked or picked up by the buyer and if the wood is split. A cord of firewood can yield heat equivilent to the amount generated by 200 gallons of fuel oil. Any piece of firewood more than 4 inches in diameter should be split to ensure uniform and complete burning.

Hardwoods burn slowly and produce more heat than conifers. Oak, hickory, locust, beech and hard maple produce high heat. Heavy dense wood that produces a lot of heat is often difficult to start and keep burning. Mixing those species with wood that produces moderate heat and is easier to start such as cherry, elm, hackberry, soft maple, sycamore and boxelder makes it easier to get a good fire going. Using dry, finely split wood as kindling also helps to start the fire. By allowing the chimney flue to warm up before adding large pieces, there will be less risk of cracking the chimney liner. If the fire is not drawing smoke up the chimney, opening a window or door for a short time will help get it started in the right direction.

Although firewood is considered a renewable resource and is relatively inexpensive, it can also serve as a home for certain nuisance insects and their relatives. For the most part, firewood insects are a nuisance by their presence and cause no harm to the home, household furnishings or humans.

Store firewood outdoors in an open area, as far away from the house as practical, to keep away insects and dirt and debris. Stack firewood off the ground to eliminate serious soil moisture problems leading to wood rot and pest problems. Stacking firewood in loose piles raised off the ground, as well as splitting or sawing into smaller sizes, accelerates drying. A simple storage rack can be made by placing two-by-fours on concrete blocks. Stack the firewood on top of the two-by-fours allowing an air gap of at least 10 inches between the ground and firewood. Never stack wood against the house.

For a cover, one can use a sheet of dark polyurethane plastic or sheet metal roofing to keep the wood dry. Provide proper ventilation if water vapor collects on the plastic cover from the green unseasoned wood.

When cold weather arrives, pieces of firewood can be moved nearer to the house for easy access. Firewood should be stored on a rack, patio or deck instead of on the ground. Bring only enough firewood into the house, to be burned immediately. Firewood stored inside the home over an hour or so may warm up enough for insects to emerge. From within or under the bark and start their spring activities early. Also, do not store firewood in a heated garage or basement for the same reason.

After one to two seasons, unprotected firewood left outside on the ground will become tunneled and full of frass from many insects. It will also develop loose bark for nuisance insects to take shelter and decrease in heat value from wood decay fungi.

It is best not to treat firewood with any pesticide. Spray treatments applied to firewood will not kill woodboreres within. Burning any insecticide-treated firewood indoors could cause a potential health hazard due to the toxic chemical fumes released into the living space by the burning room.

If a colony of ants or beetles is found in a piece of firewood, it should be discarded outdoors away from the house, rather than burned or treated with insecticides. Any beetles or larvae appearing inside the house can simply be picked up with a vacuum cleaner, broom or dustpan and discarded.


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Landscape Lingo is a weekly news column relating to home landscape, yard and garden care in Fairfield County, written and compiled by the staff at the Ohio State University Extension office in Fairfield County, and appearing on Saturday in the Lancaster Eagle Gazette.
Last Updated on September 27, 2000 by Stan Smith

All educational programs conducted by Ohio State University Extension are available to clientele on a nondiscriminatory basis without regard to race, color, creed, religion, sexual orientation, national origin, gender, age, disability or Vietnam-era veteran status.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Keith L. Smith, Director, Ohio State University Extension.
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