Many Trees are Suffering

Many trees are showing signs of decline this summer. Despite the appearnace that it's come on suddenly, trees are often in a state of decline for a number of years before it becomes obvious.

Several things could be happening with trees this year. Often times, the tree's owner notices sudden wilting, leaf drop, or branch dieback and is concerned that the tree is being attacked by a specific disease or insect, though none can be found. However, twig growth may indicate that the trees have not been growing well for a number of years. To determine growth per season, look for the bud scale scars on the twigs; this appears as faint rings encircling the twig. This is where new buds opened each spring and produced the season's growth. In general growth should range from 6" per year up to 12" or more, depending on species (and sometimes cultivar).

Trees in decline can do so for a number of years. With unusual weather over a period of years, and hot and dry weather in the current season, trees may exhibit more distinctive symptoms that alert the owner that there is a problem. Girdling roots, soil compaction and poor drainage, construction and other mechanical injuries, restricted rooting zones, non-degrading burlap on rootballs, or wire/twine left at the base of trunks can all cause decline over time.

Ongoing good tree health management is important, including proper planting and establishment, timely fertilization, pruning, mulching, and irrigation. When a problem is noted, such as a girdling root or injury to the bark, take care of it in a timely manner.

In the mean time, perhaps the best thing one may do for trees that are suffering from the stresses of this summer is to give them a good soaking. Simply place a garden hose under the drip line of the tree, and allow it to run at a slow trickle until water soaks into the trees root zone. This may be repeated weekly until normal precipitation returns.

Watering to Keep Lawns Attractive and Healthy

A major detriment to lawn attractiveness and health during the summer is a lack of soil water. During the hot, dry periods, growth of most of our lawn grasses will cease and the grass will turn brown and go dormant or die if supplemental water is not provided. Â During the driest period of the summer, our lawns usually will require about one inch of water every week to stay green and growing.

Listed below are some considerations for determining the need for supplemental watering:

* Check the root system depth. As soil temperatures increase root growth decreases. Once average soil temperatures exceed 75 F the potential exists for a 50% loss in the root system.

* Check soil moisture content. One method is to check soil moisture with a soil probe. If the core taken crumbles easily, this may be an indication that water is needed. If the core maintains its integrity and feels cool adequate moisture is present.

* Check the appearance of the plant. Turfgrass plants begin to show moisture stress by their leaf orientation. As the moisture stress progresses, the leaf blade itself begins to fold and then roll. Also, footprints may remain in the grass for several hours.

* Check the water distribution from the sprinklers by placing cans in a grid across the turf and then measuring how much water is in each can. This will tell you the amount of water being provided in a given time and also the distribution.

A few tips for effectively watering lawns:

* Lawn sprinklers usually need to be set for at least one to two hours per spot to apply one inch of water. One inch of water will typically wet a soil to a depth of six to eight inches.

* Water infrequently (weekly) and deeply (one inch of water per time) when necessary.

* Early morning, before 9 a.m., is the most efficient time for watering. The plants are already wet from dew, humidity is high, calm conditions usually exist and temperatures are cooler. Watering later in the day allows plants to stay wet through the evening hours, which increases the risk of disease. The worst time to water is in the evening because the lawn stays wet all night, which encourages disease development.

* By raising mowing heights to about three inches for the lawn, you are effectively allowing turfgrass ways to conserve moisture and moderate summer temperatures.

* Overwatering and/or frequent watering will stimulate excessive top growth and the need for more frequent mowing. Lawns watered too frequently also tend to develop shallow roots, which may make them more susceptible to pests and heat/drought stress.

Bagworm "BAGS" Should To Be Removed

We have received several calls from homeowners asking about the little brown bags they are finding hanging from evergreen plants. These are bagworms, an insect pest. Bagworm did do extensive damage to numerous trees and shrubs in 2006 resulting in severe defoliation of both evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs. The bags from the 2006 populations as well as previous years' populations are being observed on these damaged plants.

Right now the bags contain the mummified female from last season, which is full of her eggs which typically hatch in late May or early June. If you wish to use pesticides to control 2007 bagworm infestations, during the hatching period is the appropriate time to apply them. As an alternative, you may remove and destroy the bags now which will eliminate the eggs (there can be 300-1000 eggs per bag) and the resulting bagworm larvae which do the damage as they feed. The bags are attached to plants stems with silk strand, so be sure to cut these or the stem may be girdled later on.

Bagworms can build up heavy populations on preferred hosts, especially arborvitae, cedar and juniper. If crowded, they may eat buds on these plants, causing branch dieback, and open, dead areas. Bagworms also attack numerous deciduous plants, though injury is not nearly as severe as it is on evergreens.

"Garden Language"

Have you ever looked inside a seed or, been totally captivated by the beautiful pictures, started reading the plant descriptions and then simply shut the catalog because you didn't know what all those terms meant. Hopefully after reading today's column, we can help you better understand some of the language used in those garden catalogs. First of all, before ordering the first seeds, chat with some gardening friends to see which companies that have used and ask which companies were most reliable and offered good quality products. Also, keep in mind many of those beautiful pictures in the catalog don't exactly not tell the truth, but they DO ALWAYS show the best side of the plants they are offering for sale.

Common Catalog Terms:

What are Hardiness Zones-No matter what the plant, if it is to live year after year in this geographical area of Ohio, it must be hardy to Zone 6. It seems every gardening book and nursery catalog refers to plant hardiness zones, also known as climate zones or growing zones. If you're new to gardening, you may be wondering what all the fuss is with these zones, and how to find out which zone you are gardening in.

No matter what the plant, if it is to live year after year in this geographical area of Ohio, it must be hardy to Zone 6. It seems every gardening book and nursery catalog refers to plant hardiness zones, also known as climate zones or growing zones. If you're new to gardening, you may be wondering what all the fuss is with these zones, and how to find out which zone you are gardening in.

USDA and Canadian Hardiness Zones

In an attempt to answer this question, years ago botanists and horticulturists started gathering weather records throughout North America to compile a database to show the average coldest temperatures for each region. These records were condensed into a range of temperatures and transformed into various zones of plant hardiness. Maps were then made to show the lines between these temperature zones.

The climactic studies and maps were undertaken by two independent groups: The Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) in Washington, D.C. The two maps reflected some variances, but in recent years, the differences between the Arnold Arboretum and the USDA have narrowed. Today, the USDA map, is generally considered the standard measure of plant hardiness throughout much of the United States. Hence we have the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones.

So what's wrong with plant hardiness zones?

Well, just think about this: The average minimum temperature is not the only factor in figuring out whether a plant will survive in your garden. Soil types, rainfall, daytime temperatures, day length, wind, humidity and heat also play their roles. Even within a city, a street, or a spot protected by a warm wall in your own garden, there may be microclimates that affect how plants grow. The zones are a good starting point, but you still need to determine for yourself what will and won't work in your garden.

How many zones are there?

The USDA plant hardiness map divides North America into 11 hardiness zones. Zone 1 is the coldest; zone 11 is the warmest, a tropical area found only in Hawaii and southernmost Florida. In between, the zones follow a fairly predictable pattern across the continent, though a closer look will reveal scattered patterns of variations. Generally, the colder zones are found at higher latitudes and higher elevations.

Applying zone references

Plant encyclopedias may refer simply, for example, to "Zone 6," which generally means that the plant is hardy to that zone (and will endure winters there), and generally can withstand all the warmer zones below. More detailed information may indicate a range of zones (i.e., "Zones 4-9"), which means the plant will only grow in those zones, and will not tolerate the colder and warmer extremes outside them. But remember, zones are only a guide. You may find microclimates that allow you to grow more than the books say you can; by the same token, you may find to your dismay that some precious plant -- one that's "supposed" to be hardy in your zone -- finds its way to plant heaven instead.

Perennial - A plant that lives many seasons. Sometimes a "short-lived perennial" lives only one or two seasons, but this is only because they require very specific growing conditions not met in with our gardens growing conditions. In general perennials live year after year, bloom for a specific period, grow in size and become pass-a-long plants. Some perennials are so perennial that you have them forever. Remember grandma's peonies?

Annual - plant seed, grow plant, see if flower usually throughout the warm weather, see it set seed, collect seed if not a hybrid, see it die, compost it. Save the seed to restart the cycle.

Moist, well-trained soil needed - The soil will need a high level of compost or humus. The soil will be crumbly and moist when squeezed in the hand. Clay water retentive soil will form a sticky ball and sandy soil will not clump together. Rain or sprinkler water will pass through good soil and not set in puddles. Humus in the soil allows for adequate water to bind and stay in the soil to be used by the plants while the excess water drains through.

Needs acidic soil - Some plants need acid soil to enable them to metabolize soil nutrient or added fertilizers. Rhododendrons and azaleas are famous for their acid soil requirements. Plants which require aid soil and are planted in alkaline soil will just set there and eventually die unless the soil has been amended to change the soils pH . Acid soil has a pH of 7 or lower. The smaller the number, the more acidic the soil is. The only way to know the pH of your soil is to have it tested. Adding peat moss or sulphur are two ways gardeners change the acidity of their soil. Areas with a high percent of rotten pine needles are usually acidic.

Plant is a Vigorous Grower - Use caution and do some research this could become invasive or it may be just the plant you need to cover an unsightly area.

Deer Resistant Plants - under normal conditions, deer will not eat these plants. What are normal conditions for a deer? Deer will eat anything when they are hungry. Research shows that fuzzy leaved and heavily scented plants are selected last-usually. Keep in mind if you eat it . . . deer probably will too!!!

Bee Plant - Plant is very attractive to bees and should not be planted near an area which people frequent, such as a deck or patio. Keep away from children's play areas.

Plant will be shipped bareroot - When you order make a note to have the planting area prepared before the plant arrives. Bareroot means not in soil and must be cared for so the roots will not dry out. Packing material may include peat moss, spaghnum moss, shred wood or newspaper or a gel dip. Trim any broken roots off the bareroot plant prior to planting.

Warmer Spring Days are just ahead . . .

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